A speargun is only as reliable as the accessories and spare parts supporting it. Whether you are rigging a new gun from scratch, replacing worn bands before a dive trip, upgrading to a slip tip for larger species, or setting up a float system for blue water hunting — having the right accessories on hand is as important as the gun itself. This category covers everything you need to rig, maintain, upgrade, and operate your speargun safely and effectively.

What You Will Find in This Category

Spear Shafts — Stainless steel and carbon shafts in standard lengths and diameters; flopper and slip-tip compatible designs for various target species and gun models

Spear Tips & Slip Tips — Single flopper, double flopper, and breakaway slip tips for different species and hunting environments; slip tips recommended for large or hard-bodied fish

Rubber Bands & Tubing — Latex band sets and raw tubing in various diameters and lengths; replacement bands for standard and roller spearguns in single and double configurations

Wishbones & Band Connectors — Dyneema, mono, and stainless wishbones for attaching bands to shafts; crimps, swivels, and connectors for rigging and band replacement

Reels — Belt and gun-mounted reels with 50–100 m of line capacity; designed for big fish, blue water diving, and breakaway rig setups

Float Lines — Coiled and straight float lines in various lengths; connects your float to your speargun to prevent loss of equipment and manage your catch at the surface

Shooting Line — Monofilament, Dyneema, and Amsteel shooting line; connects the shaft to the gun or reel — critical for preventing shaft loss on every shot

Muzzles & Trigger Parts — Replacement muzzles, trigger mechanisms, and internal components for maintaining and repairing spearguns

Flopper Tips vs. Slip Tips — When to Use Each

The spear tip is what retains your fish after the shot — choosing the right type for your target species makes a significant difference to how often fish are lost. Flopper tips are the standard choice — a hinged barb opens on entry and locks against the fish, preventing the shaft from backing out. Single floppers work well for most reef fish; double floppers provide extra retention on fish with thick or tough body walls. Slip tips (also called breakaway tips) are a separate arrowhead attached to the shaft by a short cord — on impact, the tip detaches and rotates perpendicular inside the fish, providing a far more secure hold on large, powerful pelagic species such as yellowfin tuna, wahoo, and kingfish, where a standard flopper would tear through under the fish’s power.

Float System — Why You Need One

A float system — comprising a surface float, float line, and flag — is one of the most important safety items in spearfishing, yet it is often overlooked by beginners. The float marks your dive position to boats and other water users, provides a resting point between dives, holds your catch away from your body, and acts as a brake on large fish runs — preventing you from being towed down by a powerful fish. In many jurisdictions, a dive flag on a surface float is a legal requirement for spearfishing. [web:263][web:268]

Float — Hard-shell or inflatable dive buoy; should be highly visible (orange or yellow) and large enough to support your weight if needed

Float line — Connects float to gun; long enough to allow comfortable diving depth with slack for manoeuvring; coiled lines reduce drag

Dive flag — Alpha flag (internationally recognised) or red/white diver down flag; mounted on float to alert boat traffic to a diver below

Stringer / catch bag — Clip your fish to the float stringer or bag rather than your belt — keeps catch away from your body and reduces shark attraction risk

Band Maintenance — When to Replace

Rubber bands degrade with UV exposure, salt water, and stretching cycles — and a failing band at depth is both a lost shot and a potential safety risk. Inspect bands before every dive for cracking, surface crazing, or deformation at the wishbone connection point. As a general rule, bands used in regular diving should be replaced every 6–12 months regardless of visible condition. Keep a spare set of pre-rigged bands in your kit bag — replacing a band on a boat or beach takes minutes and ensures you never lose a dive day to equipment failure.

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